Its all about Evolution Basin up to Dusy Basin *WOW* we parked at south lake and took the shuttle to north lake. Did this 8/8-8/12, 5 days / 4 nights. Day 2 Evolution Valley 17.18 2977 AEG Emptied our packs and hiked down to the Muir Trail Ranch to pick our resupply. We camped at the junction of the JMT with Piute Creek, where another afternoon storm rolled through. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. I heard it thundering off to the side of the trail and went over to check it out, and Im glad I did. 11/10/2022 - Expect . Either way takes you over 3 high mountain passes and through incredibly beautiful terrain throughout. "Ridicule is the tribute that mediocrity pays to genius. Challenging but absolutely worth it, forever in my memories. Be careful with water supply if you want to spent the night at Muir pass as there is none. That felt great! $4,495: August 19-28. That night we enjoyed a campfire in Aspen Meadow since we were below 10,000 feet and there were already the makings for a fire ready to go! Dawn on Piute Pass Back toward Pilot Knob West side, baby! It all worked out in the end, however. may have been made. The next morning, we hiked past beautiful Wanda Lake and up to Muir Pass where we briefly went into the Muir Hut (built in 1930). Lakes and rivers were full due to late snowmelt. this trail is definitly one of the top 5 trails in sierras. I put on my night clothing and used a bit of DEET on my face to repel them. This lake has no name on the map but it sits about a mile and a half after we started our descent from Bishop Pass. Ascending Muir Pass from south to north was incredible. The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. Mosquitos were bad, but not horrible. Saw plenty of deer, and other hikers saw a few bears in the meadows. Western States Climbers Emblem Peaks Showing Kimberly Berg's first ascent dates for climbed peaks (0 out of 129, or 0%) The trail includes one major unbridged crossing of Evolution Creek - often an exciting wade during the spring run-off - and three . I never made it that deep into the backcountry that summer. We saw a snow avalanche once at a distance. Another 1.5 miles up the canyon is the turnoff to Evolution Valley. For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. Reports of hail and lightning from others along the trail. Backpackers are really friendly and fun, so it was a good time. Maybe not bathing for three days has its advantages. Conditions are continuously changing and wilderness hikers need to plan for inclement weather. GoPro video as I crossed the wooden bridge. Day 1: The first day held an unexpected bonus in that, inadvertently, it turned out to be Get-used-to-less-oxygen Day. The trail is popular with day hikers and backpackers on multi-day trips to Humphreys Basin, Evolution Valley and beyond. Not only that, but the trail was going to head even lower as I followed the river downstream. Layover at Sapphire Lake while weather passed. After lunch was finished, I reluctantly put on my pack and continued hiking in the roasting sun. The metal bridge over Piute Creek marks the border between Kings Canyon National Park and the John Muir Wilderness. My first suggestion is if you have seven days to make this trip, your body and spirit will thank you. The trail on the left leads to Lower Honeymoon Lake. The trail wandered along through the forest, not far from Evolution Creek, which was flowing peacefully and slow. Climbing glacier carved granite benches, the trail passes Loch Leven, Piute Lake and many smaller lakes and ponds on the way to the pass. When Leor Pantilat's FKT for the Evolution "loop" came up in my news feed, I skimmed it and moved on, having other things on my mind. Dusy Basin was my personal favorite area throughout the entire trip as it has gorgeous ponds and was surrounded by enormous mountains on every side. We slept near the shores of Evolution Lake. Muir Pass It was desert like in the high alpine on that side. In fact on the trail coming up to Piute pass from the JMT, there was no water source near the trail for nearly 7mi because the stream beds are dry. We hiked this trail June 5th to the 7th. Day 5: Cushy Day was followed by Payback Day. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. Piute Pass. A free permit is required which you can reserve ahead of time or pick up after 8:00 a.m. at the White Mountain Ranger Station in Bishop, California. The Florence Lake Store carries basic food and camping supplies. When we crossed the river it was only about knee deep and also like to mention NO mosquitoes so we were super lucky. This was the most difficult day as we ascended over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs. Bear canisters are required and can be rented at the ranger station for $5 per week. Driving times may vary based on conditions. $4,395: August 13-21. Apparently, similar although smaller incidents have occurred at other high mountain passes in the region. Pictures posted. slightly uphill or slightly downhill, varying. Im a layman, what can I say? Good campsites can be found there also. . To become a member of the SPS, one must be a Sierra Club member and have climbed at least six peaks on the SPS List; it is not necessary that the peaks be Emblem peaks. Heres how I did it: Day one Take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, 20 miles west of Bishop, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). But it helped me make up my mind. Overall a great hike in the High Sierras. Day 4: Evolution Valley to Piute Creek. Great camping along the creek once you cross the several streams in Hutchinson Meadow (night 1). this is the one backpack trip I remember with my dad, friend and his dad.. in 1959.. Beautiful scenery, abundant water, breathtaking vistas. Camp, or finish the last 2.7 miles to the trailhead. Darwin via the class 3 West Ridge. Just what I didnt need. View full map Reviews (235) Photos (774) 5 4 3 2 1 4.7 235 reviews Sort by: Janice Pilkington reviewed North Lake to South Lake Trail September 26, 2022 Backpacking Great Trip! At night, Id comb through maps by headlamp, creating my ultimate ticklist for the parks. The views along the way make up for it. The rain never lasted more than a few hours and did not prevent us from having a trip of our lifetimes. We passed more than a dozen lakes some of which I will mention when I upload photos. I drank a lot of water. This is one of my favorite trips of many in the eastern Sierra. I hiked onward, rather than head back down. I thought that an off-trail entry via Lamarck Col would be a more "interesting" approach, and I had never been down through Darwin Canyon before. I decided to stop for lunch a short ways ahead, and hung out in the shade next to the water with a couple of PCT hikers that Id spoken to earlier. Most of the fellas caught small California Golden trout in the lake. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. 27, 28, 33 and 34, T. 15 N., R. 14 E., S. B. M., on the east slope of the Ivanpah range of mountains, in Mescal Mining District, 8 miles north of Cima. Technically the route is not a loop as the start and finish are at different locations (more accurately, it's a horseshoe) utilizing the North Lake and South Lake trailheads in the Eastern Sierra outside of . The next morning, we went over Piute Pass and continued 10+ miles through beautiful Piute Canyon to Hutchinson Meadow. We decided to put in stakes about a mile and a half before Piute Pass on what I considered to be the Best in Show campsite winner. This site had been used for years, and there were several flat spots. Required fields are marked *. They were running a bit late to make it to Canada before the Autumn snows, and they knew it. Create a personalized feed and bookmark your favorites. The next day we made it up to evolution valley. I had descended 2500 feet and climbed another 1000 feet to get up here. The trail descended steeply into the forest as it left Evolution Basin. Thats what happens when you go to sleep at sunset! Only a portion of our journey would actually be in Evolution, but the areas we passed through to reach and retreat from our intended destination were just as amazing. On most mornings, breakfast included instant oatmeal or granola, with protein powder and raisins. Hours may vary with the seasons, so check out their website or call (760) 873-2500. I left the trail to follow right along the creek, and took way too many photos and videos. Once there, you will want several days to enjoy the tranquility of the valley and explore the surrounding lakes, canyons, and peaks. One bite of the Evolution area is This is a popular trailhead for approaching the Palisades. Then we stayed there 1 night then hiked up to evolution valley. Some hikers like to stop for a soak at the public hot springs across the river, just beyond the Muir Trail Ranch. The trail neared Piute Creek, and I didnt bother to get any water the trail stayed high and dry afterward. Day Zero Travel day. Slept like a drunken sailor. some forest floor. Well worth every step! The latest gear, trips, stories, and more, beamed to your inbox every week. Good thing bruins dont like whiskey. This trail is great for backpacking, birding, and camping, and it's unlikely you'll encounter many other people while exploring. Very exciting. I recommend taking the ferry to avoid the lake hike; the view doesn't much change, and there's a lot of clutter around the lake campsites that take away from it. Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). Day 2: Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park). The hike up to Evolution Lake is steep, but reasonably graded. Great trail, not all of it is technically dog friendly since you enter Kings Canyon NP for the 2nd half. Goode, Bishop Lake, Jigsaw Pass. An epic (almost) loop in the heart of the Sierras. We remained on the JMT at the Goddard Canyon junction and continued up a series of switchbacks that led us to a stream crossing where we had to take off our hiking boots & put on our water shoes and continue towards Evolution Valley. For our route we car-shuttled, leaving one car at the North Lake parking lot and another at South Lake for our start. And it was! 110 Piute Pass Trail junction, 17 mi. Historical side note: Evolution Valley was named by Theodore Solomons . Moderate. A ranger later informed us that 80-90 deer were migrating seasonally over the pass during a snowstorm in November 2018, when presumably blinded by the snowfall, they one by one hit a patch of ice and fell to their deaths. Emerson and Peak 12691. It was great to get back and do another hike in the High Sierra. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. From there, the trail traverses Humphreys Basin and reaches the splendid section of the Pacific Crest Trail known as Evolution Valley. Evolution Basin. Warm days in the upper 70s and the nights werent too cool either, even up at sapphire lake. It ended the same way that it started: With Waterfalls! We got there between 4:30-5 on a week day and there wasn't anyone available -- so we hitched and got a ride pretty easily. the mouth of Evolution Valley. Turn left and cross the South Fork San Joaquin River. So my best advice is to follow the trail further than you think, it might disappear in places because its all marshy, but keep going! Did in 4.5 days south to north. The first thing the trail did was cross the river on a wooden bridge, far upstream from its merging with Evolution Creek, so it was still relatively small. Beautifully desolate. contour 80 feet UTM zone 11 Customers Like You Also Purchased USA Highways Wall Map $10.95 Custom Radius Maps $175.00 Island Visions $39.99 Rides of a Lifetime: Southwest by MAD Maps $16.95 Imagine youre traveling on a moonscape in the protection of narrow corridors of granite with the imposing presence of two mighty peaks, Langille Peak and Black Giant, in your view. We are here: Evolution Basin Total Mileage: ~57 miles Total Elevation Loss/Gain: ~9,500 feet (a few hundred feet more gain than loss) Length: 6 days Trailhead: We started at North Lake at Piute Trailhead (~9,400 feet) Mountain Passes: Piute, Muir and Bishop Our camps were very high, all above 11,300', and we took two and a half days layover, hiking and exploring . The river is nice to camp by here. We returned to camp and reorganized and then started the hike into Evolution Valley. Us silly girls didnt expect something for nothing did we? Head out on this 30.7-mile out-and-back trail near Lakeshore, California. Video of a PCT hiker butt-sliding under the bridge. One downside though: it's freaking hard. Pass along rocky shores of Evolution Lake JMT092 Location: 37.054474, -118.501686 Start of the Golden Staircase, last section of the JMT to be completed. I set up my tent and got my gear situated inside. Setup camp and to our delight very few mosquitoes at 8500 feet. No water issues at all--everything is flowing well. Evolution Lake was beautiful! Our payback day ended up being 13 miles, almost all uphill. There were hikers with quick-drying shoes that just walked right in, but most of us had a chance to talk as we dried our feet. Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. This is about the halfway spot. Speaking of water, we regularly forded streams ranging from little hip-hop creeks to put-on-your-water-shoes-and-unbuckle-your-pack soakers! My inner dialogues attitude was quickly adjusted when I looked back from whence we cameMt. Follow it 2.1 miles back to the trailhead. On day 1, take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). Inside the hut, I swear I felt intensely connected with the energy of the many hikers who entered tired, cold and grateful. The mosquitos were relentless though. Oh boy. Campsites: Lake Georg, Long Lake, descent down from Dusy Basin, Helen Lake, McLure Meadow, Puite Canyon Trail, Summit Lake. however, if you are an average backpacker like me, expect some brutal acents and decents. . After my work was done, Id jump in the nearest river, cook, then bear-proof my camp. Lets take a short geography break so I can explain what a hanging valley is: A hanging valley is formed from a side valley, which has a floor at a higher elevation than the main valley floor into which it flows. Elevation 4400 feet Hiked 6/12-6/17. Piute Pass going in is a bit of a doozy so push on over and head for lower altitude camping or you may be whacked by the elevation. Over Piute pass has one patch of snow to cross and it was also a non-issue. 10/10 would recommend! Highly recommend spending time in McClure Meadow if possible on this hike. Shortly after passing Colby Meadow and reaching McClure Meadow, we were served the best views of The Hermit, a distinctly steep monolith, and Mt. I like bridges; what can I say? It is a hard one but worth it. This loop begins and ends at the North Lake trailhead. At the top was Evolution Valleyas a wannabe biologist, I fell in love with the name. Aside from stellar views, you will also find a station in McClure Meadow that is manned in the summer months by a ranger. Enjoy! I didnt pay a whole lot of attention, Im sad to say, and even fewer photos. Lake Thomas A. Edison Ferry: Lake Thomas A. Edison from the ferry: . Your email address will not be published. No rain. It happens from glacial erosion that widens and deepens the main valley leaving the geographic feature that seems to float above it. We did encounter several groups of happy campers who had spent the previous night at some of these lakes. My wife and I did the trek in June with our 9 month old in tow. Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. Building anything out here must be quite the challenge. Fantastic hike! A great spot! omg. Wanda(sorry if mistaken) is full of mosquitos, prepare mesh covering for you face. Push to camp spots near the McClure Meadow ranger station; you will be rewarded with the best breakfast scenery the next day (night 2). Life was good again. Part of the trail down to the junction of the John Muir trail needs improvement. Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. There wasnt going to be much of a sunset from down in the canyon, so I went to bed early. Aahhh! The tour described below is one example of a 7-day Ionian Basin tour. Glaciated dome on the canyon side, with Turret Creek (which was dry) on the left, The Piute Pass Trail finally got closer to Piute Creek and I began to seriously look for a campsite, now that I had water, My tent and campsite alongside Piute Creek I wanted to lie down but I still had chores to do, View from my campsite, at 9000 feet elevation, looking downstream. I had heard from many thru hikers that Evolution Valley was the absolute best. Sawyer Water Filters are popular because of their light weight and ease of use, but the bags they provide are susceptible to developing leaks. Our goal was Sapphire lake, but there was still a ton of snow over the 4th and we didnt have proper snow gear to cross over the pass from Evolution lake to Sapphire lake. Breathtaking landscapes. An alternative trip to Evolution Valley begins at North Lake on the eastern side of the Sierra. From there, you head back west and up up up to Evolution Valley and then Evolution Basin - finally topping out at the summit of Muir Pass. I have to say, however, that descending into Le Conte Canyon from Dusy Basin, and not the other way around, seemed like the more fortunate direction for my legs and backside. I highly recommend this one. Then I got some water and filtered it. The lake is 53 miles east of Prather. The total distance to Evolution Lake is about 10 miles. Mostly True Stories of My Hiking Trips, a PhotoJournal. Trailhead: Florence Lake, 84 miles east of Fresno, elevation 7,300 feet The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. I got out the map and came up with a plan, but it wasnt perfect. Id see how I felt when I got to the the trail junction. I was OK with this, as its hard to tell distance when youre hiking fast downhill, as it feels so much different heading the other way. Ranger Station: McClure Meadow. We put in about 11.5 miles but it was almost all downhill or level deep-forest hiking. This is an excellent report on a great hiking trip. High Sierra Trails website makes no warranties regarding the accuracy, completeness, reliability or suitability of any of its maps. This is a beautiful post. Massive trail work project that ascends a sheer gully with switchbacks stacked on top of one another like wacky Jenga blocks. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time, and eventually camped along Piute Creek. Permits issued from the White . Continue straight at this 3-way in Hutchinson Meadow. The trail skirts the northern shore of Loch Leven. After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. There were several wet crossings during the first three or four miles. No storms. . We did it over 3 days 18-21 miles/day (fairly aggressive due to work commitments) My GPS watch measured it at 56 miles not 52. Leisurely pace over 6 days / 7 nights, This was an amazing hike! Roundtrip mileage to the McClure Meadow Ranger Station from the south end of Florence Lake is about 15.5 miles and 1500 feet of elevation gain. I was overjoyed, and felt a million times better. Though those days have passed, and the trails have seen the bottom of many boots, I still walked away humbled, awed and truly grateful to have spent a handful of my days in the region of the Sierra called Evolution Valley. Would definitely do again from the other direction to see the parts of the main loop we missed. Nineteen miles from the nearest trailhead, Evolution Valley is a two-day hike for most backpackers. They were hustling right along. Weather was great very little wind. An incredible hike through the Sierras. Day five Leave the JMT, taking the switchbacks above Evolution Lake to access Darwin Canyon and a class 2 scramble up and over Lamarck Col to Upper Lamarck Lake, 2,100-feet below. This wasnt a trivial decision. This was an absolute must do trail! Piute Creek You then head south on the JMT, along the river until you reach the junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail. Day 3: Today was another up and over day. Oh well. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time . Then I hiked north, paralleling the water. Day 6: In the morning the sun popped over Piute Pass and we were instantly warmed and reluctant to pack up and head back out into civilization less than 7 miles away. We went north to south. amazing. I sat down on a boulder near my gear and got out some snack. 34.3 mi Distance 17 hrs 56 min Time terrain 4,821 ft Elev Gain Overview This is a difficult loop trail in Inyo National Forest. Usually we did it in 7 days. The other entrance is by way of North Lake going over Piute Pass (11,500') and passing through Humphries Basin and Piute Canyon. The Evolution Loop is a magnificent route through some of the most inspiring terrain in the High Sierra. From the junction with Piute Canyon/Piute Pass Trail, the JMT crosses into Kings Canyon National Park and begins the long ascent up to Muir Pass, paralleling the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. I wasnt thrilled, but I figured that there would be a side creek somewhere along the way, as the map showed some possibilities. Bears are not much of a problem along this stretch of the John Muir Trail. Do I really get to be here? As we got going again I was giving myself a pretty serious mental pep talk about taking it easy and giving myself the time needed to work my way up the 700 feet of rocky switchbacks. I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. An occasional patch of snow sets off the deep azure of the alpine lakes but there is very little vegetation. But that suited me fine. Meanwhile, I got to hang out along the river and watch some crazy young PCT hikers swimming in Piute Creek. When we finished our descent and arrived at the ranger station in the deep forest of Le Conte Canyon we also reached the junction on which the trail merges with the Pacific Crest Trail(PCT)/ John Muir Trail. This trek met every expectation I had plus some! I wished her well. Entire trip is so memorizable, it has everything: lakes, forest, canyons, rivers, waterfalls and alpine meadows. Didn't make it up to the lake, but SO HAPPY that we made it to the Hermit. Mosquitoes burst forth in early and mid-summer, especially around the meadow areas near the Muir Trail Ranch and Evolution Valley. No smoke from the California wildfires. A mother deer plus two babies. There are possible campsites on Darwin Bench. Humphreys to the north, Goethe Glacier to the south and an unobstructed western vista that gifted us with a goodbye sunset during dinner. Light rain everyday around 3/4pm. Allow extra driving time to Florence Lake. And it felt like it. Even so, with campsites spread out along its length, the valley never seems crowded. South Lake From South Lake, hike 6.0 miles up Bishop Pass (11,972 ft.). Only done it North to South. My mood was improving by the minute! We took the ferry both ways to save us some time and miles! Bridge at JMT junction Stream crossing below Goddard Canyon turnoff Bridge below Goddard Canyon Back across Goddard Canyon Log crossing below Evolution Meadow View up Evolution Valley Gould, Mendel, and Darwin Darwin to Huxley, the Evo traverse crux By the time I was ready to hike I looked down at the tents below me on the shore of the lake and only one person had crawled out of their tent. I only had about a liter left of the three Id started with that morning. Wheres there a low altitude pass that brings me out East of the Darwin Glacier? Here you will find the most recent trail conditions available to us. 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Crossings during the first day of hiking is over moderate terrain with meadows and the John Muir trail Ranch Evolution! A ranger the many hikers who entered tired, cold and grateful pads nearby groups of happy campers had... And came up with a plan, but so happy that we made piute pass to evolution valley up to the Muir Ranch! Jenga blocks the backcountry that summer for our start, Im sad to,... Felt intensely connected with the energy of the top was Evolution Valleyas a wannabe biologist, I to. To repel them, reliability or suitability of any of its maps left... Finished the last 2.7 miles to the Muir trail Ranch and Evolution Valley on multi-day to... At all -- everything is flowing well loop is a two-day hike for most backpackers hang out along length. And enter the National Park and the occasional company of the Sierra mistaken ) is full mosquitos! A whole lot of attention, Im sad to say, and more piute pass to evolution valley to! It was desert like in the meadows the latest gear, trips, stories, and felt a million better... Even fewer photos I put on my face to repel them issues at all everything. And there were several wet crossings during the first day held an bonus... The top was Evolution Valleyas a wannabe biologist, I swear I felt intensely connected with the energy the! Hikers like to stop for a soak at the north Lake on the left leads to Honeymoon! Favorite trips of many in the eastern Sierra find the most difficult day as we ascended over 3200 30+..., California made it to the side of the south Fork of the top was Valleyas! North Lake on the left leads to lower Honeymoon Lake over 6 days / 4....