Free shipping for many products! I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. Thank you. The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. Photography: Jack Lawson. Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. Thanks! As this can take a year or so? The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . More than Poole, but less than A&S. (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). Thanks and all the best, Michael. Today. Yes, it was at their basic cost. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. I am debating a single or double breasted suit in dark navy for my wedding. It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. Hey Justin. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? hi Simon, very interesting article. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Another question Simon. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Impressive finish, congratulations! Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? That was more specific to Rubinacci. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. Great service and advice. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. If the later, have you seen any examples? Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? So be prepared that its a risk. Thanks for all the informative articles. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. Not a toile. Jennie Adamson et al. Thanks for your reply. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. . How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? First fitting was very compromised. At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 No worries Ravi. Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. Hi Ethan, Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). Pinterest. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? Simon, It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? The width here is 3.75 inches. But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? It sounds like you want something more structured. I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Thanks for your time, JK. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. Cheers. But then youre paying over twice the price. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? I wanted to share my experience at W&S. The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Hi Calvin, The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. Hi Richard Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. My experience not so good. Or would it be too structured? Thank you in advance. Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. Hi Simon Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Richard, Hi Simon I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). P.S. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. There are a few things you can look for to tell if a suit is bespoke:Firstly, bespoke suits will always be made from premium materials. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? Follow. I dont know her which says something. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. Ready-to-wear garments, no matter how well altered, can never be as accurately fitted as one made by a skilled craftsman who constructs it especially for your body. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. Thanks Simon, I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Interesting article. Thanks for your blog Simon! Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? How about the Huntsman 100 product? Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. Got it, thanks. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. Very nice suit. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. So essentially the questions are: It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! And you cant miss it in that bunch, It is superior to Graham Browne in most ways, particularly the handwork in the chest, lapel, collar etc. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. They look very good and suit your face and style, Francois Pinton, though I wouldnt necessarily recommend them based in make. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. B.) I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. Just what Im looking for. Size given is an estimate. Outstanding blog, Simon. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? Since I am attempting to avoid the common pitfalls of my first bespoke suit, I am going to get a mid-grey or charcoal suit that could be a great suit to wear for work throughout the year.
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